Al Ula: A Practical Guide to Saudi Arabia's Ancient Desert City

Al Ula, in the north-west of Saudi Arabia, is an open-air museum of ancient civilisations. Carved tombs, rock inscriptions and the remains of a once-thriving incense trade route sit among dramatic sandstone canyons and palm groves. For travellers who want to step beyond the Gulf's modern cities, this desert valley offers a deeper glimpse into the region's pre-Islamic past.

Where is Al Ula and why visit?

Al Ula lies in the Medina Province, roughly a 4-hour drive north of Medina and about 1,100 km from Riyadh. The landscape is defined by towering rock formations, hidden wadis and lush date farms. Its most famous site, Hegra (also called Mada'in Salih), is Saudi Arabia's first UNESCO World Heritage Site, with more than 100 monumental tombs carved into sandstone outcrops by the Nabateans, the same civilisation that built Petra in Jordan.

Key sites to explore

• Hegra: The main draw. A guided tour takes you through the tomb facades, including the iconic Qasr al-Farid, a single unfinished tomb standing alone in the sand.
• Dadan and Jabal Ikmah: The ancient capital of the Dadanite and Lihyanite kingdoms, with rock-cut tombs and an "open-air library" of hundreds of inscriptions in early Arabic scripts.
• Al Ula Old Town: A labyrinth of mudbrick houses abandoned in the 20th century, now restored as a cultural quarter with traditional crafts and evening light displays.
• Elephant Rock: A natural sandstone arch shaped like an elephant, best visited at sunset.

Practical tips for your visit

The best time to explore Al Ula is between October and April, when daytime temperatures are mild enough for walking. Summers are extremely hot and best avoided. Dress modestly, as you would elsewhere in Saudi Arabia: loose, lightweight clothing that covers shoulders and knees.

Hegra requires a ticket and is typically visited on a scheduled tour; book ahead through the official visitor centre. The site is vast, so allow at least two hours. Combine it with Dadan and Jabal Ikmah, which are nearby.

Al Ula has limited public transport, so renting a car or hiring a driver is practical. The roads are good; the drive from Medina takes about four hours. There are no supermarkets inside the core area, so stock up on water and snacks before you set out.

Respect the archaeological sites: do not climb on tombs or remove any stones or inscriptions. Photography is allowed, but drones require a permit.